A review of Balade, the latest Middle Eastern restaurant in the neighborhood

Balade defines its name (“fresh”) on its menu and in its food. Fresh, that is, in terms of ingredients even when that term doesn’t extend to its take on Lebanese cuisine.
 
Thick and fluffy mini pitas arrived delectably warm and ready to be dipped in the accompanying zaatar and olive oil. Red and white wine was proferred often and freely (literally – Balade is awaiting its liquor license) by the friendly waitstaff.
 
The mezze – appetizers – are plentiful. A good bet is the marmeez, allowing a choice of four vegetarian-friendly options that are the perfect size for two to share. The falafel has a grainy but airy texture, with none of the overbearing oiliness or heaviness that so often fells its brethren. Hummus is a just-this-side-of-eggshell shade, a visual cue that it’s on the light side in taste, missing the familiar garlicky/citrusy tang. Labneh is a real highlight – the smooth texture of the creamy strained yogurt cheese a perfect counterpoint to its piquancy, further enhanced by diced tomatoes, scallions and parsley. As thin and tightly packed as cigarillos, warak einab, stuffed grape leaves, make the toothsome, not overly vinegary leaves themselves the star of the show.
 
Balade’s pita pitzas are plate-sized discs that are sit-down versions of shawarma, falafel and other on-the-go stuffed sandwiches. Pedestrian in appeal, they’re the same in taste, albeit with fresher ingredients than cart fare. A better bet might be to try a manakeesh, a thicker more truly pizza-like dish that’s often served for breakfast in Lebanon.
 
Mujuddara crush, a blend of pureed lentils dotted with rice, arrives spilling toward the edges of an oval platter. While good, it could perhaps be half its size or be topped by twice as many of the caramelized onions that resemble their candy namesake in texture as well as color.
 
Speaking of crush, you might want to bring your latest here to take advantage of the just-above-candlelight level of lighting, plentiful cabernet-colored embellished pillows and warm wood. If you arrive alone, though, you can take a seat at the dining bar facing the brick wall through which Arabesques peek out on rough tiles.

Balade promises to be a reliable neighborhood joint and is a solid candidate to last among the other Middle Eastern contenders in the area.

Balade
208 1st Ave
New York, NY 10009-3705
(212) 529-6868


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