Goods’ Streamlined Menu Leaves Nothing Off

Food writing is at the mercy of the same vagaries automotive writing is – the writer often has to be forgiven an emotional bias. This is appropriately the case with Goods, a restaurant whose kitchen is housed in a refurbished and repurposed Spartan trailer. Just as you might give a biased review of a Ferrari’s handling because you are so overwhelmed by the attractiveness of its exterior, a proper review requires a second, harder look. So it is with Goods.

Parked at the corner of Metropolitan and Lorimer in Williamsburg, it’s damn charming, right down to the woman taking your order, curly hair held up by a bandanna a la Lucy, who interacts with customers in a way that has you considering if she was transported in time along with the trailer. Order your dish off the simple menu, wait for your number to be called  and relax in the wood and pebble garden around back.

The lunch/dinner menu has seven items on it, but all you need to know about are two – the biscuit and the fried green tomato sandwich. The biscuit is a delicate, properly sized platform for the addition of eggs, an organic sausage patty and fresh local cheese. It’s very cool to order an egg sandwich and see a rind on the cheese. The assembled sandwich is a thing of beauty, not surprising considering the same talent behind 3rd Ward is responsible.

I once was a vegetarian and often made the argument that my meat-free meals were just as satisfying as the dishes my non-vegetarian friends enjoyed. When I started eating meat again, I understood why they found the concept silly. But the fried-green-tomato sandwich – all thick-fried tomato goodness and spicy relish topping – is not to be trifled with. It stomps on lesser, meat-filled concoctions.

Of note is that they have fried-chicken Sundays, which I have yet to try, but when I do, it will be held to the standard of Pies ‘n’ Thighs.

Go to Goods for their dedication to preparing delicious, comforting food. While it seems destined to be the next fashionable hipster eatery (take that to mean what you will), there is substance behind the facade that’s so pretty it could have been the place’s undoing. Thankfully, they really do have the goods.


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